India is one of the most diverse nations in the world and a country so vast many consider it is a subcontinent, with a geographical diversity from mountains to coast lines, arid deserts to lush tropical forests. Within these geographical boundaries there is a dizzying array of languages, cultures, religions, ethnic groups and a rich wildlife that combine to produce a country that is beautiful, intriguing, beguiling, fascinating and baffling. To enjoy India is not to understand her but to accept her in all her technicoloured glory and occasional frustrations.
Chhattisgarh is a breakaway state of Madhya Pradesh and is home to a wealth of history, culture, tribal lands and staggering scenery. Blessed by nature, Chhattisgarh has two mighty rivers (Indravati and Mahanadi), 12% of India’s forests, and a series of rolling hills. The Vindhyachal Mountain Range, which cuts India in two horizontally, dominates and thundering waterfalls dot the landscape, ancient underground caves harbour awesome formations of stalactites and stalagmites that have taken aeons to grow. However, Chhattisgarh is perhaps best known for being a tribal-dominated state, and it has a significantly large tribal population – 32.5% as compared to 7.8% for the rest of India consisting of many different tribes. Each of these has its own rich (and distinctive) history and culture of music, dance, dress and food though common to each is a simple, basic, in-tune-with-nature way of life that has changed little over centuries.
Away from the main cities where international style hotels are available, accommodation can be fairly simple throughout these two states, mainly because tourism hasn’t really developed here, which is a bonus! Chattisgarh has a couple of small, low key but lovely palaces and a community project in the rural hinterland.
Historic, modern, vibrant, chaotic and intense, Delhi is a heady mixture of experiences. Old Delhi, is chaotic with medieval winding alleys, crammed with cycle rickshaws, colourful shops and noisy street traders; New Delhi, has spacious, sweeping boulevards built and magnificent buildings by the British in 1911. Old Delhi is home to the bustling shopping artery of Chandni Chowk, Shah Jahan’s Red Fort (Lal Qila) and India’s largest mosque, the Jami Masjid whereas New Delhi is home to some of the capital’s most distinguished addresses. It has an array of museums, gardens, temples and mausoleums. Delhi’s shopping is unbeatable: from sari silks to contemporary fashion, crafts to jewellery, which can be found anywhere from market stalls to old-world shops to modern luxurious malls. A recent emergence is the thriving nightlife, and an increasing number of trendy bars, clubs and restaurants are also opening up across the city.
Accommodation
The range of accommodation in Delhi reflects the diversity of the city perfectly. It has The Imperial, the landmark hotel of the city, iconic brands such at Taj and Oberoi but also a small collection of chic boutique stays as well as charming homestays and some fun backpacker places too!
As a former Portuguese colony, the tiny state of Goa has managed to retain a different character from that of the rest of India. Long beaches are interspersed with appealing villages and charming small towns. The capital, Panjim, is located roughly in the centre of the state and is dotted with whitewashed churches and palm-lined plazas.
Goa is also a hot spot for the Indian party set, with a dizzying choice of bars, restaurants and beach parties. Goans are Hispanic in nature, very friendly and full of extroverted fun. They almost revere their delicious cuisine, adore their wines and love their much-deserved afternoon siestas. Conversely, Goa is also developing as a soft adventure and birding destination.
North and south Goa have totally different atmospheres. The northern resorts offer a taste of the bohemian lifestyle, complete with weekly flea markets, while the southern shores peace and privacy in larger, resort style hotels.
There isn’t much that Goa doesn’t have in the way of accommodation, charming little boutique hotels, beach shacks, tented camps, converted forts, historic converted old Portuguese homes and fabulous five star hotels from Leela to Taj and many more in between, including a Hard Rock Hotel. You are guaranteed to find somewhere that you will love, whether you are looking for a party vibe in North Goa or a more laid back experience in the south. But, there is more than just beaches, charming little boutique hotels, packed with character fill Fontainhas, the old Portuguese HQ and Old Goa, there are river side retreats and up in the hills, for those looking for treks and nature, there’s some rustic options too. Of course, in Goa, you are never too far away from a yoga retreat, ask and it shall be found, that’s Goa!
India’s western state of Gujarat has a cultural wealth on a par with Rajasthan’s yet is still visited by few. It is the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi and home to some of most colourful tribes, exotic textiles and glorious temples in India. Gujarat’s dramatic landscape extends from the undulating Aravalli Hills to the immense salt flats of Kutch, the most unique wildlife reserve in India.
Its largest city, Ahmedabad is dizzying mix of modern and medieval; architecture ranges from ornate Indo-Saracenic forms commissioned by 15th-century Muslim sultans to the stark concrete structures built by Le Corbusier; spend a day wondering through intoxicating bazaars, mosques, tombs, bazaars, Hindu and Jain temples and marvellous step-wells not to mention the fascinating Calico Museum, the Sun Temple at Modera and the impressive step wells of Patan.
Visit the captivating tribes of Bhuj with their textiles, jewellery and houses all decorated with elaborate mirrorwork and savour the delights experienced on the tour relaxing on the huge windswept beaches at Mandvi with their shipyards using techniques dating back hundreds of years. Climb the 3400 steps to the incredible marble temples of Palitana and visit the only lion population of India in Gir and the Black Buck Sanctuary, now with a healthy population of wolves at Velavadar National Park.
Rajasthan’s fame lay in the fact that it was made up of twenty two princely states. After the privy purses were taken away in 1972, in order to survive, many of these became heritage hotels and thus started the tourism boom to this majestic state. The stories of love and romance and war and valour all helped! Less well-known Gujarat had two hundred princely states, yes two hundred! Therefore can you imagine the numbers of palatial stays there are here? It hasn’t latched onto the tourism boom like Rajasthan and although some were more magnificent in their day, they haven’t developed in the same way, but never-the-less, they are fascinating, oftentimes quirky places to stay. Gujarat is also a great destination for wildlife and it’s lodges range from mid-range to wonderful. Add to that the rustic off beat villages for textile tours and some lovely homestays and there is a wonderful mix to keep you enchanted on your visit.
Himachal Pradesh spans five mountain ranges and has rivers that weave through small villages and apple orchards. Snow-capped mountains, alpine forests and shimmering lakes abound in this spectacular region. The state capital, Shimla, formerly the summer capital of the Raj, has developed into a noisy, bustling town but visitors can still find fresh mountain air and majestic pines framed by the lofty jagged peaks of the Himalayas. Train enthusiasts should arrive on the slow but nostalgic toy train from Kalka. Those on a spiritual quest should not miss Dharamsala, home of the Dalai Lama and a centre for Tibetan culture. Drive there from Shimla via the Kangra Valley where a day or two can be spent exploring. The neighbouring Kullu Valley is known for its stunning views, vibrant local traditions and apple orchards. Within a week, visitors can witness many of India’s different facets.
The capital, Shimla has all that you would expect from quirky homestays to historic hotels and a wonderful Oberoi out at Mashobra. The rest of Himachal is more rustic, chocolate box log cabins, homestays on tea plantations, very rural and basic community projects and, what has excited me most of late, a wonderful heritage circuit staying in the small yet uniquely characterful former palaces of this remote region. It’s worth a visit here just for those!
Karnataka has abundant variety, from world heritage sites to, lush green forests and amazing wildlife in Bandipur and Nagarhole National Parks. There are Raj era hill stations, timeless temples, pristine beaches, as well as adventure sports and vibrant art & culture. Its beaches are virtually untouched, and temple towns adorn Karnataka’s quiet tropical coast, while in the cool highlands of Kodagu (Coorg), the lush coffee and spice plantations provide spectacular scenery and wonderful treks along paths trampled by migrating elephants.
The Royal City of Mysore’s is home to a spectacular palace as well being an internationally renowned centre for yoga. Nearby are superbly crafted Hoysala temples dating from the 12th century and enormous Jain sculptures of Gomateshvara, not forgetting the intricately carved temples at Belur and Halebeedu. Few tourists make it to the remote, ruined Vijayanagara city of Hampi in Karnataka but those who do are left overwhelmed by its beauty and atmosphere
Karnataka has it all, beaches and wildlife, culture and heritage, history and coffee what’s not to love? It remains relatively off the radar when compared to its nemesis, Kerala which means that the crowds haven’t hit it yet and that’s all the more reason to visit. I can honestly say that Karnataka has some of the best hotels I have stayed in, it also has an abundance of planter’s houses, a sprinkling of wildlife lodges, take in its main cities and there’s the five stars too. Hampi is still a slog to get to but at least when there, there are now some wonderful hotels. A selection here will keep you comfortable, allow you to meet charming people and choose right, and they will impress you too.
Kerala, appropriately named `God’s Own Country,’ it is as far removed from the classic idea of India as can possibly be. It is green and verdant with lush waterways overhung with coconut trees, and its topography is formed by the endless green of rolling tea estates, the rugged mountains of the Western Ghats and rich and verdant forests forming its national parks. It is the land of spices and culinary delights especially for those who love fish and sea food, it is bounded on one side by palm fringed beaches, it is the home of Ayurveda a 5000-year-old holistic system of medicine and of course, it is culturally rich with many outside influences including Dutch, Egyptian, Arab, Chinese and Europeans helping to form its unique identity. However, despite all its many and varied attributes, what makes Kerala particularly special is its people who have a warmth and hospitality that can been seen in their smiles which reach into their eyes and warm the hearts of anyone who chooses to visit this destination.
What I love about Kerala is that it never over glammed itself. Hotels are in keeping with the nature of their surroundings and the gentleness of the people. That’s not to say there aren’t great hotels, there certainly are, but even the bigger ones, well out of my collection at least, have a maximum of 50 rooms. It is also the state that pioneered homestays and has perfected the art of the truly hosted homestay like nowhere else. It also does boutique brilliantly well. The variety of accommodation is also fun, with houseboats, tree houses and plantation bungalows on offer. However, where Kerala excels is its hospitality and I can honestly say, that in over 20 years of being an ‘expert’ to this region, every single traveller has returned from Kerala claiming it was the people who made their trip.
Spectacularly jagged, arid mountains enfold this magical ex mountain kingdom which is situated in the far north of the sub-continent, at an altitude over 3500 meters. Ladakh, meaning ‘land of high mountain passes’ is often referred to as ‘little Tibet,’ which is hardly surprising given that is a land of ancient palaces, Buddhist monasteries and remote villages. However, it is now also becoming known as a destination to head in search of elusive wildlife and, in its newest avatar, it is fast becoming an adventure destination. All this is encased within some of the most breath-taking mountain scenery on the planet. Ladakh dispels the theory that one can’t travel to India in the summer, as that is the peak season there. However, it is now gaining popularity as a winter destination, for those who can handle the cold, for its wolves, bears and snow leopards. This truly is a land like no other.
From an 18th Century Palace which dominates the sky line to modern hotels with all the mod cons that you would expect and some treats that you wouldn’t to the most rustic of homestays where you will get a truly authentic, if basic experience, tented camps, both luxurious and simple and some converted heritage homes, and an organic retreat, it is safe to say that somewhere as allegedly inhospitable as Ladakh, can now cater to every budget and expectation
Madhya Pradesh is the true centre and heartland of India. Its forests were made famous by Rudyard Kipling and many have subsequently been turned into National Parks. Its better-known parks of Pench, Kanha and Bandhavgarh protect tiger, leopard, wild dog, gaur, monkey and deer as well as many reptiles and birds, though not to be missed are the relatively recently discovered parks of Panna and Satpura.
Madhya Pradesh is one of India’s most enchanting states, remains virtually unspoilt by mass tourism. Its sites include the imposing fort at Gwalior and the Scindia palace museum; the erotic carvings of the temples at Khajuraho and the forested temples on the river at Orchha. Close to Bhopal are the two UNESCO world heritage sites of Sanchi and Bhimbetka and Maheshwar on the banks of the Narmada River is a hidden gem with a glorious, quirky palace hotel, Ahilya Fort, and close enough to be able to visit the holy town of Omkareshwar and the deserted monuments at Mandu.
One of the things we love about this state is that much of it really does seem like the rest of India used to be one hundred years ago. Drives wind through forested areas, and past villages where most of the population still live in mud and thatch houses which they repaint every year, after the monsoon, in a vivid indigo blue. During November when the mustard crops are ready the brilliance of the yellow against the blue houses is wonderfully eye catching.
This is a state where the wildlife lodges have really come into their own and some can now truly compete with the best in Africa. Whatever the national park, whether Bandhavgarh, Panna, Pench, Satpura or Kanha, I will only work with those lodges I know to be owned and managed by people to believe in conservation and have their own naturalists who are passionate about wildlife and the overall client experience. What amazes me, and this is my favourite state, is that tourism numbers to Madhya Pradesh are still relatively low, and this means that the choice of accommodation can be a little limited however, there is a good if small collection of three and four start hotels and, as I am always delighted to find, some truly fabulous off the beaten track gems, from rustic camps to former quirky palaces which are definitely not to be missed.
India’s greatest port, financial capital and trend-setting East-West nexus is perched on the Arabian Sea on an island and separated from the rest of India by a winding creek. Now known as Mumbai, it is a world unto itself, with a unique intensity that hits you the moment you land. Its culture is contemporary, vibrant and often in your face, reflecting both the affluence and poverty of more than 15 million people crowded onto this island. Restaurants, bars, museums and shops intermingle with shining new skyscrapers, congested streets, bright neon lights, and the glamorous film industry of Bollywood, India’s most prolific film industry, it has some of Asia’s biggest slums (as well as the world’s most expensive home) and the largest tropical forest in an urban zone. Mumbai is the financial powerhouse, fashion epicenter and a pulse point of religious diversity.
Mumbai has a furious energy, but the heart of the city contains some of the grandest colonial-era architecture on the planet, explore a little more and you’ll uncover unique bazaars, hidden temples, hipster enclaves and India’s premier restaurants and nightlife.
Accommodation:
From the Iconic Taj Mahal Hotel to charming boutique stays, the five star luxury hotels lining the Queens necklace to business and transit hotels close to the airport, Mumbai’s hotel scene is as dazzling as the city itself.
India’s north east, is a remote region made up of the states of Assam, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Arunachal Pradesh, Manipur, Mizoram, Nagaland, Sikkim and Tripura. It has an extraordinary history and a culture made up of its myriad tribes, Tibetan as well as British influences, and harsh and extreme conditions. Comprising multiple states each with multiple ethnic groups with a rich heritage of art and craft, this region cannot be easily summed up. It also takes careful negotiating to traverse around a landscape which ranges from snow clad mountains, dense forests and frozen lakes in the upper reaches of Arunachal Pradesh to lush green tea gardens in Assam. It may not make for an easy trip, but it will be one that is infinitely rewarding. Of course, no trip is complete without viewing the region’s diverse wildlife. From the one-horned rhinoceros to the hornbill and rare species of orchids, the North East is home to 54% of threatened mammals, 68% of birds and 63% of reptiles in the country.
A developing region of India the North East has farm stays and a smattering of five stars, wildlife lodges and planter’s bungalows, newly designed wonderful resorts though of course, the more off beat you venture, the more basic government rest houses and homestays may have to suffice. Travel here reminds me of my early days, a little bit of roughing it, but having access to extraordinary places and then a gem of a place to pamper you in all the right places just when you need it.
Orissa is a large and verdant state clinging to the coast of the Bay of Bengal. It is known for its extraordinary temples rivaling those anywhere else in India, in particular, the magnificent Sun Temple at Konark, one of the most incredible man made sites of India, as well as for the majestic temple of Lord Jagannath at Puri (renowned for the spectacular Rath Yatra chariot festival), and for the ‘beehive’ shaped temples of Bhubaneswar. However it should also be known for its ikat textiles, for having the largest fresh/salt water lake in Asia, and for its beaches at Puri and Gopalpur on sea. In addition, it is an area of India known for its rural and tribal communities; there are hundreds of small, traditional villages and only four of its cities have more than one hundred thousand inhabitants. The latest development here is the opening of some of the palaces of the nobility, think Rajasthan 40 years ago!
Orissa, is now catching onto tourism a little more and has a palace circuit opening up. It’s early days but that’s what makes it special, think Rajasthan 30 years ago!
Punjab, is one of the smallest and yet the most prosperous states of India. It is the land of the Sikhs, temples are replaced by Gurdwaras as the most popular places of worship, Blender’s Pride replaces Royal Stag as the choice whisky, and the personable, turban-clad, fun-loving population, generally provide a break from the stresses found elsewhere in India. For some visitors to India, many aspects of Punjabi culture, from butter chicken to bhangra music and vibrant dance, strike visitors as quintessentially Indian.
Better known places to visit include The Golden Temple in Amritsar – Sikhism’s holiest shrine and one of India’s most beautiful buildings, and the city of Chandigarh – an Indian city like no other, designed by the modernist architect Le Corbusier.
From farm stays to five stars, that describes the accommodation in the Punjab. Chandigarh has a variety of standard five star hotels and now also boasts an Oberoi property, a fabulous addition to this creative city. Amritsar has branded hotels including Hyatt and Taj as well as a couple of boutique properties and some wonderful homestays. Punjab meaning five rivers is a highly fertile state and not surprisingly, has a large farming community, farm stays are proving popular here with their great hospitality, great food and activities such as tractor driving!
The most majestic and romantic of all the Indian states is Rajasthan with its royal palaces, forts, and legendary cities such as Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur whose majesty and history conjure up images of the opulence synonymous with the region. It combines ancient desert tribes, warring Rajputs and royal Maharajas and features forgotten Moghul fortresses, striking desert landscapes and dense forests offering the chance to happen upon the elusive Royal Bengal Tiger. Empty landscapes are punctuated by the flashes of colour of the bright saris worn by the village women and the bustle of village markets centred around crumbling cupolas of forgotten monuments. In addition, there is a history of chivalry and romance of the Rajputs and Royalty which makes the region as intriguing as it is dramatic.
Whatever your destination, India’s hospitality is legendary and accommodation ranges from simple tribal village homes to ornately frescoed havelis, converted palaces to little explored off-the-beaten track forts, royal hunting lodges and summer palaces where one is hosted by the former ruling families.
Rajasthan is the home of luxury, its majestic forts and sumptuous palaces aren’t just to look at in Rajasthan they are to stay in too, in addition there is glamping at its best and some of the best off beat luxury hotels to be found in the country. However, Rajasthan is also synonymous with heritage and, maybe slightly less luxurious but packing in a lot of culture and experiences are the famous havelis which abound in the region. When it comes to hospitality, the Rajputs are hard to beat, and homestays are a fabulous way to meet the locals, sample homecooked food and gain some great insider tips. Whatever your budget or preference, Rajasthan can cater to it all.
Renowned for its temples, Dravidian culture and wildlife parks. Explore a multitude of vast temple compounds with steeply stepped, riotously coloured gopurams, beautifully detailed rock carvings, and watch classical music and dance performances that are both complex and compelling. Pilgrims pour into the ancient sites of Kanchipuram, Chidambaram, Kumbakonam, Trichy (Tiruchirappalli), Thanjavur (Tanjore), Madurai, Kanyakumari and Rameswaram – far outnumbering tourists. In addition, long coastlines and forested mountains form stunning backdrops to this, the cradle of Dravidian civilisation.
Tamil Nadu’s national parks and reserves, whilst not renowned for tiger sightings nevertheless remain important refuges for much of India’s wildlife including elephants, rare monkeys and gaurs. The hill stations of Kodaikanal and ‘Snooty Ooty’ which once provided a cool refuge for the colonial British during the summer months still bear the remnants of these days and provide cool, calm, green contrast to the bustle of the cities. The main city Chennai and the former French colony of Pondicherry each have their own unique character and distinctive style.
Over the last few years, a few discerning small chains and individuals have developed the knack of providing delightful accommodation and this is transforming travel here. Like Kerala, Tamil Nadu keeps it low key, exclusive, special and delightful and I am now able to design itineraries around my favourite collection of wonderful, eclectic and inviting places to stay.
Uttarakhand is one of India’s most beautiful yet least visited States. It has always been known for its more spiritual destinations of Rishikesh and Haridwar but it is now starting to be recognised for so, so much more and deservedly so. It encompasses snow-capped mountains, picturesque villages and wild rivers as well as a rich and varied wildlife in its national parks of Corbett and Rajaji, all of which combine to make it a wonderful adventure destination offering wildlife safaris, white water rafting and incredible trekking in the lower Himalaya. It is also home to India’s top spa hotel, Ananda in the Himalayas, and offers a plethora of yoga and ashram experiences in and around its most famous spiritual town of Rishikesh. The Kumaon region is pristine, with beautiful walks and spectacular drives, unsurpassed nature and endless photo opportunities. There is no wonder that this region is undergoing a wonderful transformation from the spiritual to the adventurous. It is also a haven for resident and migratory birds and the unspoiled destinations of Pangot and the lake region of Sal Tal are must visit destinations for keen bird watchers
Rishikesh, being the home of yoga, has many ashrams to choose from but now is also developing a nice collection of good spas for those who like a little more luxury with their yoga, with the most famous, and most luxurious being Vana and Ananda. It is also developing as an adventure destination and houses India’s first Active Hotel. Corbett National Park has too many options, of which I will only use a few, integrity in conservation and a passion for wildlife are key to the wildlife lodges I work with throughout India. The more rural areas are now opening up to tourism and even in the remote hills there are some fabulous, sometimes quirky independent hotels. However, I also avidly support rural tourism and for those who don’t mind ‘roughing it’ there are some amazing, purely authentic homestay experiences. There is nothing smart and boutique here, you are living with the locals farmers etc, but the authenticity of the experience more than makes up for it.
Uttar Pradesh houses one of the greatest wonders of the world, the Taj Mahal located in Agra. Lesser known but also absolutely worth exploring is, Lucknow which was associated with the princely court of Oudh and then with the British. Traditional cuisine and music from here are definitely worth exploring and enjoying.
Further east is Varanasi, the oldest city in India and for many, the most shocking but it provides at its very worst for a fascinating culture shock and its very best, a spiritual journey that will stay with you for life. An important centre of Hindu pilgrimage, it is believed that those who die in Varanasi will be released from the cycle of rebirth. Within feet of each other, people come here to wash away their sins by bathing in the river, the dead are cremated and holy men meditate. Every evening there is a boisterous, yet enchanting prayer ceremony which is not to be missed. But, what many people tend to ignore is the old city. It is worth having a guided tour to discover this lesser explored area of the city with its narrow by lanes, crowded bazaars and temples.
The three wildlife sanctuaries at Dudhwa, Kishanpur, Khatarniaghat and Satiana between them have river mammals, tiger, wild elephant and rhino. Just an hour outside Agra is Chambal which has the ancient temples of Bateshwar, UP’s first heritage village, Holipura and river safaris.
In the main destinations that Uttar Pradesh is known for, Agra and Varanasi there is a wide range of accommodation from a couple of independent palaces, international five-star brands to quirky three stars and one or two lovely homestays. Lucknow is an emerging destination but has a good choice of international brand hotels, though the homestay concept hasn’t really developed here. Dudhwa has limited accommodation with just one smart lodge, a wonderful tented camp and then forest guesthouses. Of course, I have also found a couple of wonderful off beat, more rural properties which are an ideal addition to a journey around this often-overlooked state.
Bengal has long been considered the cultural centre of India producing a host of authors, poets, artists and film makers. Calcutta (now called Kolkata), is a city of contrasts. Expensive residential blocks border tenements and slums, and faded Imperial colonial buildings in this cosmopolitan centre of creativity, art and literature. Visitors with a couple of days can explore its many faces. South of Calcutta on the Bay of Bengal are the Sunderbans, one of the largest deltas in the world. It is a wild and remote region and home to the elusive Royal Bengal Tiger. To the north are flourishing mango plantations and jute fields, leading into the Himalayan foothills with tea plantations stretching as far as the eye can see. Colonial Hill Stations still provide respite from the summer heat and the mountain views in winter can be stunning when the air is clear.
Tea planter’s bungalows and historic buildings dominate Kolkata and Darjeeling, the former capital of the Days of the Raj and their summer escape. Evidence of the grandeur of those days is evident throughout including to a lesser extent, Kalimpong. However, it wasn’t all the East India Company, the local wealthy landowners or Zamindars, also built palaces for themselves and some of these are now being converted into hotels, mainly away from the main cities, which is a double bonus as one gets to see the wonderful rural and off-beat destinations together with the history and splendour of this wonderful old buildings.